Head Knife

The head knife, also called a round knife in many shops, is one of the oldest and most versatile blades in leatherwork. It's built around a broad, half-circle blade with the cutting edge along the curve, mounted in a handle that sits above or behind the blade depending on the maker. Saddlers and shoemakers have relied on some version of this shape for centuries because a single well-sharpened head knife can do the job of several straight knives: cutting straight lines, following curves, trimming patterns, and thinning leather.

Because the entire curved edge is sharp, the knife can be rocked, drawn, or pushed depending on the cut, which is part of what makes it so flexible once you're comfortable with it. It has a real learning curve compared to a utility knife, but leatherworkers who commit to it tend to never go back.

How to use it

1. Hold the knife with several fingers wrapped around the handle and the curved edge facing away from your body, cutting in a push motion.
2. For straight cuts, use the knife along a steel straightedge, keeping consistent downward pressure and a low blade angle.
3. For curves, rock the blade gently through the arc rather than trying to steer a straight edge around the corner.
4. To round off a corner, pivot the knife over the point using the curve of the blade as a natural guide (a coin traced first is a common way to set the radius).
5. To skive, lay the blade nearly flat against the leather and shave thin layers from the flesh side.

Care

A head knife needs frequent stropping to stay usable — a few passes on a leather strop loaded with polishing compound between cuts keeps the edge keen. Full sharpening on stones is only needed occasionally if you strop regularly. Store it in a sheath or blade guard, since the entire curved edge is vulnerable to nicking if it knocks against other tools.