Setting Rivets in Leather

Rivets join layers of leather permanently and fast, without needing to stitch a whole seam. They're common at stress points — the base of a strap, the corners of a bag, belt loops — anywhere a joint needs to hold serious pulling force. Double cap rivets, which have a domed metal cap on both sides, are the most common style for leather goods because they look finished from either side.

What you'll need

• Double cap rivets in a length matched to your leather's combined thickness
• A rivet setting tool (a dedicated rivet setter, or a rapid rivet press)
• A hole punch (rotary punch or drive punch) sized to the rivet post
• A rubber or rawhide mallet
• A hard, flat setting surface — a bench block or the concave anvil that often comes with rivet setters

Steps

1. Punch matching holes through both layers of leather at the point where the rivet will go, sized to fit the rivet's post snugly without being loose.
2. Check the post length. No more than about 1/8 inch of the rivet's post should protrude through the leather once the pieces are together — too much extra length makes a poor, loose set.
3. Insert the male post (the longer piece) through the holes from one side.
4. Place the female cap over the protruding post from the other side and press the two halves together by hand until they hold their position.
5. Set the rivet on a concave anvil, cap-side down in the anvil's dip, with the setting tool's rounded end resting on the opposite cap.
6. Strike the setting tool firmly with the mallet — one confident strike is usually enough; several light taps can deform the cap instead of setting it cleanly.
7. Check the set by trying to twist or pull the two layers apart at the rivet; a properly set rivet won't spin or loosen.